Weather Helmed

an adventure in renewing the spirit and living the dream…on a sailboat

Weather Helmed

News from Fiji

October 25th, 2010 · Fiji, Random Thoughts

Ok, so back to Fiji for a moment…  While we were hanging out at the cafe in Port Denerau, I entertained myself by reading through the two local newspapers the cafe had on display.  Some of the news items struck me as quite interesting, so I thought I’d share a few of the (paraphrased) headliners from the week we were there.

Mining Camp Raided
Hundreds of people were forced from their makeshift mining camp on top of an old landfill near Suva.  The people had set up camp on the landfill so they could mine for scrap metal parts.  The hunt for scrap metal is so competitive that the scavengers had been digging day and night to maximize their haul.  Even mothers with babies at their breasts were digging non-stop for remnants of old tractors and other machinery buried at the dump back in the 1970’s.

Conference hosts trash debate
A young twenty-something woman spoke at a UN-sponsored conference in the South Pacific about the merits and difficulties of “trash collecting.”  The woman challenged the notion that burning trash is the best way to handle overflowing landfills.  She and her family are trash collectors – just a few of the thousands of people who collect and transport recyclable materials from landfills to the recycling facilities in exchange for money.  She argued that the current and encouraged practice of burning trash prevents people like her from doing their part to recycle goods and earn a living.  She suggested that the UN and national governments should instead consider implementing laws that would make it easier for the trash collectors to access the dumps so more people could – and would – do it.   (*This article caught my eye because when I went to Ecuador in 2000, we visited a huge dump that had thousands of people living in it doing this exact thing.)

Copra as a bio-fuel?
Anyone traveling around the south pacific May-July cannot help but see the evidence of copra harvesting.  “Copra” is the term for the dried coconut meat that is used to make shredded coconut and most all coconut-oil based items.  All around the islands one sees dozens of small fires where coconuts are either being dried or their husks burned.  Now, scientists on Fiji are exploring the idea of using copra as a bio fuel and building plants in rural areas to help farmers cut down on the costs of transporting their copra to the larger cities.

Local Newspaper is not anti-government
After a few critical months of fearing their newspaper would be shut down for good, the new editor in chief (or owner?) wanted to make a few things clear….   “To be seen as anti-government or pro-government are charges that do us no favor as a responsible media organization.  We would rather be seen … simply as a newspaper of integrity.”  (oh, if only our media organizations felt the same way! ha)

Ice falls from the sky! (I think the newspaper dramatized this just a bit…)
“We thought the end of the world was at hand.  Some fell on their knees in prayer but the children brought us back to reality when they shouted, ‘It’s ice! It’s ice falling from the sky!'”  Hail, falling in 1-5 inch pieces rained down on villages on the eastern side of Viti Levu for the first time in more than sixty years – if ever before.

Effects of the Drought
Fijians are watching the weather carefully, waiting for their rainy season to begin, as more and more villages are feeling the effects of the months long drought.  In some villages, people are having to carry their water jugs for miles just in hope of getting fresh water from other rainwater reservoirs.  Recently, in one of the city suburbs, fire fighters were unable to fully douse a fire due to lack of water.  “We had the hose and were spraying the house when suddenly, the fire hydrant just stopped working.”

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The Volcano at Port Resolution, Tanna, Vanuatu

October 23rd, 2010 · Beautiful, Famous Firsts, Our Route, shoe-cruising, Shore Excursions, Vanuatu

Since we knew we would be staying in Fiji for so long, it was never in our original plans to go to Vanuatu.  Yes, we had heard interesting things about it, but we just felt like we didn’t have enough time.  But, as fortune would have it, we randomly ran into fellow cruisers S/V Victoria in Musket Cove and when I asked about their future plans, three words stood out to me – Tanna, active volcano.  I knew that Matt and Jon weren’t really paying attention to the conversation, but I had little doubt that when I pitched visiting Tanna to them, they would say yes.  So, after a brief glimpse at the map and a quick read through our Moon guidebook, it was decided that Tanna, Vanuatu would be our next and only stop on our way to New Caledonia.

We arrived in Tanna in the early morning, Jon telling us how he was able to see the glow from the volcano while he had been on watch that night.  We were eager to find out what we had to do to get to Mt. Yasur.  S/V Victoria and another cruising boat we knew, S/V Savannah, were in Port Resolution, too, and so we wasted no time calling them up.  We learned that the “national park” where the volcano was located only took Vatu (their money), and the only way to get Vatu was to take a 2hr truck ride (one way) to the other side of the island.  However, luckily for us, Savannah & Victoria pooled their leftover Vatu and had the exact amount needed for the three of us to go the volcano!!  We were so excited about this turn of events because none of us were looking forward to 4 hours of bumpy road after 4.5 days of sailing!  Victoria also related stories to us of their interactions with the Tannese locals.  She could not say enough how friendly and unassuming the people were and also how remote, yet connected, the village at Port Resolution seemed.  They have no electricity and had never seen duct tape before, yet had cell phones and MP3 players and computers.  (It wasn’t clear to us how they managed this technology w/o electricity, but we did learn that it was common practice for people to come out to boats asking if the boat could charge their cell phones!)

Tanna is very jungle-y (is that a word?)  On land, it felt warm and humid and was very lush, green, and dense.  We arrived at the base of the volcano, a shocking barren, gray landscape compared to what we had just come from.  The crater spewed thick gray smoke and there were ashy, dark gray boulders scattered all around us, evidence of past explosions.  We walked up a short, steep section to the rim of the crater, then were led higher up to the left once our guides determined which side of the crater would be safest.

From higher up, we could see down into the crater, see its shape, see the red glow emitting from deep inside it.

We all waited anxiously, wondering what the explosions were going to be like.  Finally, we heard a rumbling blast, short but intense, and then fiery, bright red rocks shot up out of the crater.

As the daylight faded, the volcanic eruptions grew stronger and stronger, with the molten lava shooting up higher each time.

With every explosion, our guides clapped and cheered, as though encouraging the volcano in its performance.  As I felt the blasts beneath my feet and watched the fireworks rain down from the sky, I couldn’t help but think how spectacular and strange it was, and we knew how it worked, we knew what was going on, we understood the science behind it.  No wonder, I thought, that back in the day, people did whatever they could to try and appease the gods! I couldn’t imagine how *I* would have reacted back then had I simply encountered this smoking, writhing, quaking, effervescent mountain that erupted unpredictably, releasing glowing hot coals from its bowels, and occasionally spewing thick, red, boiling magma over its sides.  No, it’s no surprise to me why they would sacrifice women or children or warriors or pigs or all the tea in China if they thought their offerings would quell this giant’s roars.

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Fiji Highlight – DOLPHINS!!

October 21st, 2010 · Famous Firsts, Fiji

After we picked up Allison in Nadi, we spent one night anchored off Beachcomber Island (NOT recommended) and then left early the next morning to go to Waya Island.  There was no wind and the water was almost perfectly still.  We were motoring along at 4.5 knots when we saw the joyful splashes and heard the poofs of air that we now know means dolphins are close.  Two large bottlenose dolphins met us at the bow and kept up with us with laughably little effort.  Almost immediately, I noticed that they were acting different than all the other dolphins we had encountered.  These guys were lazily turning on their sides and looking up at us, or even turning completely upside down and showing us their bellies.  Because we were going so slow and the water was so clear, we could see every nick in their skin, the glint in their eyes, and when they breathed, we felt the puff of air and water right in our face (blech! dolphin breath! :)) Just watching them swim along with such ease and grace was awesome enough, but THEN – THEN – they did something we had never seen before or even heard about:

I looked down (hanging my head over the side of the bow), and could clearly se we that one of the dolphins had pressed himself against the hull of the boat and was using the force of the flowing water to hold him there so he could literally “ride” the boat.  When he slowly slipped away, it took only seconds before I heard a “thump” against the hull and could see how he pressed his tail against the boat this time to help keep him there for the ride.  He did this, coming back time after time, for at least ten minutes, even pushing another dolphin off the hull so he could have his fun.  While I was riveted to my position over the side, watching this strange phenomenon, a handful of other dolphins rushed us and soon they were leaping out in front of the boat and smacking their tail on the water, sending splashes of water up on the deck.  They were jumping so high and close to the boat, you could see the individual remoras attached to the dolphins hanging on for dear life!

It was probably the most incredible 30 minutes I’ve experienced on this entire trip.  I LOVE dolphins and having got to “meet” them in Moorea, I am even more awed at their strength and grace and, this time, I really could not deny that it seemed like the dolphins were playing at the bow purely for the fun and joy of it.  Watching the dolphin “ride” on our hull felt like a once-in-a-lifetime glimpse into the dolphin life and having them turn and look up at us, with just a few feet between us…  THIS is the stuff my dreams are made of 🙂

* we have pics and video of this, but stupid internet is not cooperating!!!

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Fiji Highlight – Musket Cove

October 21st, 2010 · Cruising with Friends, Debauchery, Fiji, Life on the Boat, shoe-cruising, Shore Excursions

Musket Cove has long been a cruiser’s haven in Fiji.  Located on Manolo Island, MC offers a fairly calm mooring field, laundry, hot showers, a mini-market, bars, restaurants, and access to a resort pool.  No trip to Fiji would be complete without some sort of resort relaxation, so we hung out at MC for a few days to take advantage of all the amenities.  We took showers everyday, did our laundry, laid by the pool and had some excellent dining experiences.  There is a small hut – a bar! – near the dinghy dock and on Sunday evenings, they have a set-up where you buy your choice of raw, marinated meats (steak, fish, sausages, pork), along with various ready-made sides (salad, rolls, baked potatoes, etc), and you cook your own meal.  So, we all purchased our dinners and then the guys took the meat and elbowed their way up to the grill, I mean the barby.  The food was delicious!  Plus the atmosphere was quite fun with groups of loud raucous aussies and new zealanders and a few yachties laughing and enjoying themselves. If you go there on a weekday, you can order your meats/sides from the Traders mini-market and cook it at the bar’s barbys later.  We also recommend the little restaurant (if you can call it that) on the patio of Traders.  The menu was limited but the food was good, just be prepared to wait a while.  We can’t say many good things about the resort that is right there next to the marina except that the pool is nice.  We had breakfast there one morning and it was a bit of a debacle.  Needless to say, we avoided the restaurant after that.  Our favorite discovery at MC was Ananda’s, a lovely outdoor restaurant on the far side of the airport runway, down towards Plantation Resort.  Ananda’s did not seem to be directly related to any of the resorts and so had no unfriendly attitude towards cruisers who just show up and want to eat.  The food there was AMAZING!  By far the best restaurant food we had (outside of Pt. Denerau of course! ha).  They had a 3-course meal option that included soup, a bbq’d entree, and dessert.  Everything we got was fantastic.  And, the price was pretty awesome.  And, the guys said that Anandas served up the strongest drinks 🙂

If you’re not a cruiser, I wouldn’t suggest coming to any of the resorts here on the west side of Manolo, near the marina.  The water is not very clear anywhere near the shoreline, although I guess there was a pretty nice reef farther out into the bay; the resort near the marina and Plantation Resort are both fairly large and were overrun with kids, so it might not be the best place to relax.  We just walked through Plantation briefly and it looked like a family summer camp!  There are several other resorts in Fiji that are extremely family friendly, but if you have kids, you might want to check out those that have special programs/activities for kids if you expect/desire to get some down time yourself 🙂

For cruisers, MC is the perfect place to hang out for a few days to fill up on water, fuel and rest as you wander around the islands.  The moorings were cheap, the water good, and I think all of us on the boat appreciated a few nights of sound sleep in a calm cove where we didn’t have to deal with the anchor or the swell!

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Leaving Fiji (??)

October 13th, 2010 · Debauchery, Fiji, First Mates, Passages

After checking out of the country for the second time (long story), we are hoping to leave Fiji in the morning (Oct 14).   Our plan is to head to Tanna, Vanuatu to check out an active volcano, then head to New Caledonia (probably Noumea – the “Paris of the South Pacific”!), where we will wait for a good weather window before making our final final FINAL leg of the trip! to Bundaburg, Australia.  I have really enjoyed our stay here in Fiji, although, believe it or not, I’m starting to get pretty bored.  ha!  I think this next part of the trip will be good and I feel optimistic that I won’t throw anyone overboard during the passages (nor myself).  I am feeling happier than I have in a long time 🙂  It could be because we had a great time with friends or because we’ve made new ones out of the restaurant staff here at Port Denerau, or maybe it’s because we just stayed in a nice resort hotel and slept in a fantastic bed, or maybe it’s because I get ice cream and hamburgers and excellent indian curry on a regular basis, or maybe it’s because I’m finally getting used to life on the boat after 8 months, or maybe it’s because I’ve been able to talk to some of my closest friends via Skype during these last two weeks, or maybe it’s because we’ve had lightning and thunder and wicked storm clouds here recently and right now I’m falling asleep to the delightful sound of rain on the deck, or maybe, just maybe, it is because of another FIJI HIGHLIGHT:

We’ve booked our tickets home!

p.s.  on a totally unrelated note, Jon has updated the drink link page on Syzygy, so for all of you awesome people who have helped us celebrate our successes and mourn our “failures,” check it out  🙂

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Fiji Highlight: Port Denerau

October 11th, 2010 · Fiji, shoe-cruising

I know most people won’t understand this one – not even most of our fellow cruisers – but I will always think of Port Denerau fondly.  Yes it is the land of “expensive” dining, cheap touristy souvenirs, overly eager adventure hawkers, sunburned and dazed brash, still-drunk co-eds heading back to Oz, and occasionally loud and smelly ferries, buses, and cabs, but you know what? It also felt a little bit like home.  We had our cafe with good coffee and excellent smoothies, our ice cream shop, our breakfast place, fantastic hamburgers at the Hard Rock, great curry at Indigo, and Vonu beer-towers for the guys at Lulu.  Not to mention a cute little store with books & magazines for me to browse and a pretty good grocery (small, but good).  And of course the marina offered us fresh showers, laundry, good water and a calm berth.  It is good for the soul to get away from civilization sometimes, but it is also really really really good to come back 🙂

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Fiji Highlight – our anniversary getaway

October 11th, 2010 · Fiji, First Mates, Shore Excursions

While sitting at a late breakfast on Sunday, Matt surprised me by suggesting maybe we should get a hotel and get off the boat (and away from the wonderful Denerau Marina) for a day.  We checked prices and decided since it was already getting late in the day, we would book for Monday.  So, a few internet clicks later, we had a room at the local Radisson Resort for Monday night.

Monday morning, we grabbed a quick breakfast and headed to the RR, hoping we could get an early check-in as I’d requested.  YES!  Our excitement was tangible as we opened the door to our room and were greeted by a chilly breeze coming from the AC and ceiling fan.  AIR CONDITIONING!!! OMG!!  It’s been sooo long since we felt cool and comfortable.  We threw our stuff down and jumped on the bed, doing a snow angel or two as we relished the cool crisp sheets and the hugeness of the king sized mattress.  After checking out the bathroom (I’m in love with the above-counter sink!), the closets, the TV, and the resort map, we set out for the “adults only” part of the pool and spent the next 3 hours poolside.  Later, I showered and got really decked out for dinner – I mean I showered, shaved, blow-dried my hair AND put make-up on! It was a big deal.  Not gonna lie, I almost didn’t recognize myself.  My hair hasn’t seen a blow-dryer for over six months and make-up?!?!!? I felt like a whole new person. Matt, too, was quite impressed with my transformation (as he should be!).

Even though we only stayed one night, it was a much needed respite from the boat, the marina scene, and the heat of western Fiji.  Plus, it just made our anniversary feel that much more special 🙂

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Fiji Highlight: Hiking on Waya Island & a lesson in boat kid hygiene

October 11th, 2010 · Beautiful, Cruising with Friends, Fellow Cruisers, Fiji, Shore Excursions

Our second week in Fiji, first week with our guests, we were finally able to reunite with our cruising friends on IO and Totem.  We hadn’t seen them in far too long, so we made plans to meet them at the southern anchorage on Waya Island, in Yalobi Bay.  Although we haven’t spent as much time with Totem, we were warmly welcomed by their three beautiful tow-headed children.  Of course, these kids regularly meet and bond with new folks within seconds, so I wasn’t too surprised that they opened up to us immediately.  Since there was energy and excitement in being together, we took advantage of that to arrange a guide to take us on a hike up the hills above the village.  We met on the beach early one morning and the guide was quick to gather us up and move us out.  Accompanied by an exuberant friendly little dog, our gang crossed the beach, scrambled up through some rocks and began the slow process of hiking up a steep incline of loose pebbles and scraggly brush.

The Totem kids – N (11), M (8) and S (6) were too busy running after the dog to be bothered much by the climb, but when we all stopped to catch our breath, the two youngest, M & S, eagerly sat down next to me.  I made small talk with them, asking about other hikes they had been on.  M started to describe one of their more memorable hikes in Daniel’s Bay, Nuku Hiva (aka Hakatea Bay).  The hike (really just a long walk through the woods) winds through some banana trees, past a few “ruins” and eventually ends in this cul-de-sac of towering rock walls and a waterfall spilling down into a freshwater pool.  That pool, as M reminded me, is full of freshwater shrimp – large creepy things with long spindly antennae and spidery legs that propel them awkwardly forward and yet strangely fast in reverse. Talking about the shrimp (which I was too afraid to play with, let alone get close to), M casually mentions how they let the shrimp “clean” them.  I had seen pictures of this sort of thing before – shrimp cleaning diver’s teeth, etc – but I had never actually met someone who had experienced it.  “Wait a minute,” I said, “You let them clean you?”  M nods like it’s no big deal; S giggles coquettishly and says, “Yes! There were two big shrimp fighting over who got to clean my toes!”  M looks at her little sister and smiles then turns away with a contemplative look on her young face.  Tilting her head to the side, she says to me in a very mature, matter-of-fact tone, “Yes, but I don’t like to be cleaned by freshwater shrimp.  I prefer to be cleaned by juvenile remoras.”  She then goes on to tell me – in detail – what juvenile remoras look like, how they differ from the adult ones, what you have to do to get them to come clean you (sit down near a reef and be very still), and how it feels when they do it (she pinched my skin gently).

(I know!)

Soon, we got up and continued making our way along the steep mountainside, wandering through dry scrubby trees and finally emerging at the top with an eyeful of beautiful vistas.  Yalobi Village was below us and gorgeous seas all around.

(see Gary climbing the tree?)

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A Perfect 10.10.10

October 8th, 2010 · Fiji, First Mates, Thoughts on Family

This Sunday commemorates 8 months since we left the dock at Emeryville, but of greater significance to me is that it is also one year since Matt and I exchanged wedding vows in front of our family and friends.  In an email this week, my friend Amanda said,

I feel like every now and then, you really get confirmation that you married the right man…”

And this year, if nothing else, has been filled with those “every now and then” moments.

This I am certain of – he is the most perfect man for me.

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Life on the dock

October 7th, 2010 · Fiji, Introspection, Life on the Boat, Our Route, Random Thoughts, shoe-cruising, Words to Cling to

After the last few weeks of sailing all around, it is kind of nice to be tucked into the marina berths here at Port Denerau.  Some of our other cruising friends scoff at the high prices of the restaurants here and another referred to this center of tourist madness as “Disneyland,” but I happen to like eating out every day (though my waist doesn’t!), listening to the fijian entertainers play bad covers of western music (enter Bryan Adams), taking hot fresh-water showers followed by a blast of cold water, having easy access to laundry, and meeting our neighbors here on C dock.  As we experienced in Emeryville – our “home” dock for so long – it can be quite cozy to have your house bellied up to the dock, just a few feet away from some of the nicest people you could ever meet.  I find myself getting too comfortable here, not wanting to leave on yet another passage even though we are just weeks away from Australia and, thus, weeks away from the end of this trip.  It is quiet and still in the marina, so convenient and relaxing.  It is also hotter than a house on fire, but I’m trying not to think about that.

We are planning to leave early tomorrow morning but, truth be told, we haven’t paid close attention to the weather lately and right now it looks like a raging Armageddon battle is taking place up in the hills to the east of us.  Our tentative plan after this is to check out the island of Tanna in Vanuatu, where there’s an active volcano, before heading on to Noumea in New Caledonia and then finally to Australia.  It feels strange to realize that we’ve been out here for 8 months this Sunday (which is also our 1yr wedding anniversary!!) and that we are *hopefully* less than a month away from docking at Brisbane.  That will be the end of the trip for me and Matt!  I have so many conflicting thoughts about ending this trip but my heart is also aching for the familiarity of home.  It kills me to be missing Fall.   I have thoroughly enjoyed our time here in Fiji, though, and am looking forward to this next part of the trip – even the passages! *Well, sort of.  🙂   I feel like Tahiti was my boiling point and I have begun to “simmer down” as they say.  Not that I haven’t thrown a tantrum here and there, but overall, I have been feeling much happier and optimistic these days.  I know some of you out there were worried about me! 🙂

I get these sometimes silly, but always uplifting “notes from the universe” and a recent one was a good reminder for me, looking back and looking forward:

“If you knew what I now know, Karen, you wouldn’t be in such a hurry.  Not just because you have countless worlds to look forward to, but because the world you’re now on was once one of them.”

Yes, internet, I know…  the struggle to be present, to enjoy the moment, continues.  I hope all of you are enjoying your 86,400 moments today 🙂

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